Hear is the run down of what's been up.
When I turn the key the engin turns, but fails to start. Every so often it acks like it will start but dosen't. So I changed the plugs, and it worked for a week or two. At that point I changed the plug wires, cap, rotor button and checked the fuses. I made shure to put every thing back together the way it had came off. it started and I drove to work and back, and now ti dosn't start at all. At this point I take the distributer cap back off inspect it put it back on.... nothing. My next step is checking for fuel and spark. it's getting fuel and spark, how ever the spark from the coil is white, and the spar from the plugs are reddish orange. The battery seems too have a good charge. And now I am at a loss of what to do.If a starter turns can it still be faulty?The above answers are all pretty good. I, however, believe you may have a faulty coil. Because it sparks and has fuel, and sometimes starts and sometimes doesn't, I think you may have a weak coil or at least a bad connection somewhere in the coil wiring system. Another possibility is engine compression is too low.If a starter turns can it still be faulty?its mechanic time, tell him (or her)what you have done so far, and its not the starterIf a starter turns can it still be faulty?if your starter works then the battery has still got some charge left in it.
if you notice sparks then i guess the ignition system is fine.
have you tried checking the carburetor?
have the cylinders checked for compression leaksIf a starter turns can it still be faulty?check your firing order of the plugwires also chech and make sure that the pickup coil is not damaged.If a starter turns can it still be faulty?Two quite different symptoms may be noticed in a car that refuses to start. If the engine will not fire when the starter motor turns it over, the fault must be in the ignition or the fuel supply. But if the starter motor itself does not function, the fault must be in the motor or its associated electrics.
It is likely that the fault is not with the starter motor itself but with the power supply system. To check this possibility, in cases where there is no response when the starter is operated, begin again and turn the key one position to put it into the ignition on position. The ignition warning light should come on and the fuel gauge register. If they do not no power is leaving the battery. This will be because the battery is flat or the connections at the terminals are at fault.
Flat Battery.
If the headlights or any other major power consumer have been left on for any length of time, the battery will become completely flat and must be recharged before the engine can be started in the normal way.
Faulty Battery Post Connections.
If the battery itself is in order, the loss of power may be caused by faulty connections between the battery and the starter. The 榩ost?connections on top of the battery are always suspect. In extreme conditions ?icy weather for example ?a starter motor can take 400 amps to turn the engine over. Any faulty connection will prevent such currents from flowing, but may nevertheless pass the much smaller currents demanded by the ignition lights.
A quick clue as to the condition of the connections can be had by touching the positive terminal of the battery, marked +, immediately after you try to start the car. If it feels hot, the connection is poor.
Corrosion may have begun on the inside of the clamp, on the post or both. A quick whisk with some sandpaper will restore the surface condition of both.
Battery clamps often become slightly oval inside due to corrosion. So when you replace the clamp try to place it in a slightly different position so that it presents a fresh face to the post.
With the 榟elmet?type of connection, a screw through the top locks the connection in place. If it has worked loose tighten it, but if this reduces no result, remove the screw, lift off the 榟elmet?and clean it and the post with emery paper.
If the battery connection will not come away from the post after it has loosened, trickle hot water over it. Never try to pull or twist it free as this risks cracking the battery case.
Faulty Battery Cables.
If you can find nothing wrong with the battery connections, next check the battery cables. The braided metal lead to the earth connection is especially suspect because corrosion can creep along it attacking individual strands of wire until those remaining cannot carry the starting load. It is easy to be misled by an apparently sound lead as the corrosion often affects only the underside. Lift the lead so you can check it all round and if faulty replace it.
The earth connection on the body of the car should also be examined since rust can set up on the nut and bolt connection. Undo the connection, clean its faces with emery cloth and bolt it back into place. The area of metal around the bolt may also need cleaning.
The insulated live lead from the battery tends not to suffer from corrosion as much as the earth lead does, but an overfilled cell or a fine crack in the battery case can allow acid to escape, settle on the lead and work its way under the insulation. To test for problems in this area bend the lead to and fro several times. If it is corroded you will feel the grating of the fractured wires ?a sign that it must be replaced.
Turn the ignition key to the first position again and if the ignition light fails to come on try the horn and headlamps. If none work, the battery is completely flat. If the battery is providing power try to start the engine again.
If there is still no sign of life in the starter motor and the lights do not dim when you try to start the car, it is clear no power is reaching the starter. When the starter motor turns it drains off power from the lights and causes them to dim. So if the motor fails to turn and the lamps remain bright there are two possible faults. Either power is not reaching the starter motor or the motor itself is defective.If a starter turns can it still be faulty?Your problem is in the distributor. In 89-90 GM distributor had a habit of going bad. Look for a used one. Mark the position of the rotor, loosen the bolt and after pulling it out, put the new in the same way.
You can also check resistance by checking the stator to ground. GM recommends that before checking the car to depress the brake pedal with the key off in order to cut down on electrical resistance. I know that part sounds dumb but it's true.
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